Brunton transit compasses: instruction manual (15 pages). Compass Brunton ECLIPSE Instruction Manual. Brunton compasses: instruction manual . Manuals and User Guides for Brunton ECLIPSE We have 2 Brunton ECLIPSE manuals available for free PDF download: Instruction Manual. The Brunton Eclipse combines all the tools you need for easy navigation. This unit offers three separate clinometer systems and much more. -.
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July 17, Comments 0 How-To Articles. Take a few moments to jump in and learn some compass navigations tips and tricks and check out two prominent baseplate style compasses from Brunton and Suunto! For many reasons, beyond the intentions of this article, I am a huge advocate of the baseplate style compass. Pictured is the Sunnto M-3G with global needle. When you decide to jump from a baseplate compass into a sighting compass, there are no two bigger names that the Suunto MC-2G and the Brunton Eclipse The Silva Ranger is also an extremely popular choice.
However, it is nearly identical in form, functions and looks to the Suunto that an additional comparison does not really make sense. While these are both top end sighting compasses from two very reputable manufacturers, they vary greatly in style. Which one fits your style?
We are about to find out: Both compasses carry a list of features you would expect to see on this type of compass. Rather than list them out in boring detail, I would rather point them out while showing how each compass operates.
Magnetic Declination – Brunton ECLIPSE Instruction Manual [Page 7]
Before I get bfunton the real world operation of each, I want to take a moment to talk about the needles in each. The Brunton utilizes a disc magnet, which are notorious for their speed.
The reason is that the magnet is close to the center, which is the axis of rotation for the magnet. It is easy to visualize why it will dampen quicker if you compare that to the traditional compass needle, having the magnet at the end of a long stick, far away from center. The result is brumton needle function is both fast and smooth.
The Suunto utilized a global needle. Compass needles are balanced for either northern or southern hemisphere use. In order to compensate for this, the south needle is generally weighted although I have seen mass removed from the north needle. This allows the magnet to tilt however it needs to, and have the needle stay level.
It is actually very slick, and reminds me of a gyroscope. While this is all well and good if you are a world traveler, the global needle also has two amazing benefits for the non-world traveler. First, the dampening is crazy fast! For the same reason the disc compass is generally fast, the small, center magnet in this needle dampens faster than any other baseplate or sighting compass I have seen. Second, since the magnet and needle operate semi-separately it allows the user to get very sloppy with their level hold and still get accurate readings.
Hold the compass level at your belly so you can look directly over top of itpoint to an object, and box the needle. Notice the Suunto has the very standard 2 degree increments.
This allows you to very easily split the marks, getting a very accurate 1 degree resolution. Which is more than likely going to be beyond the capability of my users.
Need to know how to get back? Conveniently, Suunto provided another index line for reading the back bearing, among other things. But first, it is important to note that the Brunton actually has two covers. The first, smaller one allows you to do non-sighted and sighted bearings. The second cover gives you access to the clear baseplate, meridian lines and scales for working with a map.
We will do that later. The small cover is a neat idea. One of the drawbacks of a sighting compass is having to open and close it all the time just to use it. The small cover is quick an easy. Hold the compass level at your belly, point to an object, and……and……wait a minute…. First thing to note here is that the bearing is read on the user side of the capsule.
Brunton ECLIPSE Manuals
Nothing big, but it is just different that most compasses, where it is read on the farther end of the capsule. There are three very neat features here. First, are the 1 degree increments on the bezel.
That is the most resolution you are going to be able to buy in this style compass. I like having it. Second, is that there is a magnification bubble to help you read the bearing.
Third, is multiple bearing scales. Both the bearing and back bearing can be read at the same time, in the same location, just by looking at the different scales. This is also my first nit pick on the Brunton.
The back bearing scale seems to be hidden kind of far up in the housing.
Brunton Cadet User Manual
To read it you manuual have to tilt the compass backward a little to see in there. That kind of goes against the most basic of rules; keep your compass level. I guess at that point your circles have been aligned, bezel has been rotated, and now you are not going to move it. So, tilting the compass to read the back bearing is no biggie I guess. That is a lot of talking for 88099 a little bit of work. But trust me, it gets much better.
Brunton ECLIPSE 8099 Instruction Manual: Magnetic Declination
This is where it really gets interesting. We are going to do sighted bearings. The technique is similar on both.
The compass now bruton up from the belly position closer to your face. How you do the alignment of each, I will detail. Suunto The Suunto is very standard for a sighting compass. You use the notch in the cover to sight on a distant object. Next, you use the mirror to look down upon the capsule, doghouse and north arrow to make everything line up and read your bearing.
It is important to note that the mirror has a line that is meant to line up with the forward and rearward index line. This eliminates one type of parallax error. You just adjust the angle to make things work for you. This is where the subject matter gets a bit ugly. By lining up the mirror line with the forward index line and brunyon index line, we eliminated one type of parallax.
But, there is another and there manua, no way around discussing it. When holding the compass out our belly, we were able to look directly over the compass. Now, we are holding it at eye level, with an angled mirror, bruntln doghouse at yet another angle. Alignment gets a bit more difficult.
The problem and solution are both fairly easy with the Suunto. Because of the msnual involved we can nrunton physically see when the needle is directly over top of the doghouse. Yet, because the needle is a line, and we have the doghouse lines, we just need to make everything parallel.
Again, we have both a line on the sighting mirror and a line opposite the capsule for proper alignment. I am assuming they mean detents for the sighting mirror to stop at. Those pre-sets are quite laid back. At the 90 degree setting, it seems to just click to let you know you have reached that setting, yet it moves freely all the way open to the degree setting. You then have to get mqnual past the detent to open it all the way for map work. We will see if it actually means anything in use, or if I am just being picky.
Now, the worst msnual parallax problem, 90 degrees. This is where my real heartburn with the Brunton manua. With the Suunto, we had a bunch of lines to just make parallel, and we solved this issue. That is way more than significant in my book. Especially on a compass that has maunal selling feature of 1 degree graduations. But, I manaul this compass, so I am not ready to give up yet. The bottom line is that I came up with a way to make this work. I am not extremely happy about it, and it leaves the possibility for error in use still.
But, it seems accurate and repeatable. I played with many, many different methods, and I am not going to bore you with all the stuff that did not work. Instead, here is what I found that did work. You may find another way, but here is what I did.
The sighting mirror needs to be as low as possible to the compass. The smaller distance lessens the parallax. Yet, when it is too low you can not see the line opposite the capsule to make sure alignment is correct. So, I put it in the lowest possible position to barely be able to see some of that line. This position is still too high for alignment to be correct.